Handloom in the Coir Industry

Handloom in the Coir Industry

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Handloom in the Coir Industry

A handloom is a traditional weaving device used to make fabric from yarn or thread. In the coir industry, which uses coconut fiber to make mats, rugs, and other items, the handloom helps in weaving coir yarn into these products.

A handloom in the coir industry has several important parts:

1. Chain Beam: This holds the warp threads (the long threads that run lengthwise) in place. It helps in keeping the yarns in order while weaving.

2. Waist Beam: The woven cloth is rolled onto this beam as weaving progresses.

3. Chain Rest Beam: It gives support to the chain beam and helps maintain the proper position of the yarns.

4. Tension Beam: This beam keeps the yarn tight and prevents it from becoming loose during weaving.

5. Heddle Frame: This part holds the heddles, which are wires or cords with holes that guide the warp threads. It helps in raising and lowering the threads to make weaving patterns.

6. Treadles: These are foot pedals. When pressed, they move the heddle frames up and down, allowing the weaver to make different patterns.

7. Pulley: A simple machine used to help lift or guide parts like the heddle frame more easily.

8. Slay (Sley): This part pushes the weft yarn (the yarn that goes sideways) into place after it is passed through the warp.

9. Lamp Rod: A rod that holds the threads at the top, helping to maintain their alignment.

10. Reed: A comb-like structure that helps keep the warp threads evenly spaced and also pushes the weft yarn into place after each pass.

11. Shuttle: A tool used to carry the weft yarn through the warp threads from one side to the other.

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MESH MAT

 MESH MAT

This is a non-brush doormat produced with the help of a specially designed wooden frame. The size of the frame is made to the size of the mat to be made. The warp yarn is guided in between the nails in the length way and width way perpendicular to each other. There must be 4 layers of warp - two in length way and two in width way alternately. There will be 4 coir yarns crossing each other at the intersecting point. The mat is made by tying together the 4 coir yarn at the crossing point of warp layers with a special knot. A finer variety of coir yarn with the help of a needle is inserted through the mesh and circled over the warp yarn at the point of intersection in such a way that the stitching yarn should cross at the rear side of the mat. For getting designs, coloured yarn is used for tying.

A rectangular frame made out of 4 wooden planks upon which nails without heads are fixed at equal distances. The nails on one side of the frame are parallel to the nails on the opposite side of the frame. There should be 15 nails per foot. Usually for No-1 size the number of nails would be 17 and 30 in width way and length way respectively. Similarly, for the No.2 size, the number of nails is 20 and 34.

Having completed the tying according to the pattern, the mat is taken out of the frame. The edges of the mat round are finished by stitching with a coir braid of a suitable type or by a special braiding with 8 ends of coir yarn or finished with lace work.

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Mesh Mat Making – Step by Step (Simple English)

1. What is a Mesh Mat?

   • A doormat made without using a brush.

   • Made using a special wooden frame.

2. Wooden Frame:

   • Frame is built to match the mat size.

   • Nails (without heads) are fixed on all four sides.

   • Nails are placed evenly.

   • Nails on one side are parallel to the opposite side.

   • 15 nails per foot.

   • Size No.1 frame: 17 nails width, 30 nails length.

   • Size No.2 frame: 20 nails width, 34 nails length.

3. Warp Yarn Setup:

   • Yarn is stretched between nails in two directions:

     • Lengthwise (up and down)

     • Widthwise (side to side)

   • 4 layers in total:

     • 2 layers in each direction

   • Yarns cross each other at right angles (intersecting points).

   • At each crossing, 4 coir yarns meet.

4. Tying the Mat:

   • The 4 yarns are tied together with a special knot at each crossing.

   • A thinner coir yarn is stitched at each crossing using a needle.

   • This yarn goes through the mat and around the warp yarns.

   • The stitching yarn should cross at the back side of the mat.

   • Colored yarn is used for making patterns or designs.

5. Finishing the Mat:

   • After tying is done, the mat is removed from the frame.

   • The edges are finished in one of these ways:

     • Stitched with a coir braid.

     • Braided with 8 coir yarn ends.

     • Decorated with lace.

Natural dyes

 Natural dyes are classified into three main types based on their source: vegetable, animal, and mineral. Vegetable dyes come from plants, animal dyes from insects or animals, and mineral dyes from various minerals. 

Vegetable Dyes:

• Examples: Madder (red/pink), indigo (blue), turmeric (yellow), onion skins (yellow/brown), walnuts (brown), pomegranate (yellow), and henna (red). 
• Sources: Roots, leaves, bark, fruits, and wood of various plants. 

Animal Dyes:

• Examples: Cochineal (red), lac (red/violet), murex snail (purple/indigo blue).
• Sources: Insects and other invertebrates. 

Mineral Dyes:

• Examples: Iron oxide (brown/black), ochre (yellow/brown/red).
• Sources: Naturally occurring minerals, ores, and clays. 

Blue Wool Standard

Blue Wool Standard :

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Blue Wool Standard: Simple Explanation

The Blue Wool Standard is a test used to see how well something can keep its color when it is in the sun or strong light.

• It uses 8 strips of blue-colored wool (Blue Wool Scale from 1 to 8).

• Each strip fades at a known speed.

• The higher the number, the slower it fades. For example:

  • 1 fades very fast.

  • 8 fades very slowly.

When testing, your sample is put next to the blue wool strips in the same light. After some time, you compare how much your sample faded to the strips.

This tells you how lightfast your sample is – in other words, how well it resists fading from light.

Sure! Here's a more detailed explanation of the Blue Wool Standard in simple English:

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What Is the Blue Wool Standard?

The Blue Wool Standard is a test used to measure how much a material fades when it is exposed to light, especially sunlight or UV (ultraviolet) light. It is commonly used in:

• Textiles (like clothing and fabrics)

• Paints

• Inks

• Paper (like in books or art)

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Why It’s Important

Some materials lose their color when they are in light for a long time. This is called fading. The Blue Wool Standard helps people know how long a material can stay in the light before it starts to lose color.

This is important for:

• Artists

• Designers

• Museums

• Anyone who wants colors to last a long time

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How the Test Works

1. There are 8 Blue Wool Strips – Each strip is dyed with a special blue dye that fades at a known rate.

   • Strip 1 fades the fastest.

   • Strip 8 fades the slowest (very resistant to fading).

2. Your sample (like colored fabric or printed paper) is placed next to the blue wool strips.

3. Both are exposed to light (sunlight or artificial UV light) for a certain amount of time.

4. After some time, you compare your sample to the blue wool strips.

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How to Read the Results

• If your sample fades as much as Blue Wool Strip 2, it has poor lightfastness.

• If it fades like Strip 6, it has good lightfastness.

• If it doesn't fade until Strip 8 does, it has excellent lightfastness.

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Blue Wool Scale Summary

Blue Wool Rating	Fading Speed	Lightfastness
1	Fades very fast	Very poor
2	Fast	Poor
3	Moderate	Fair
4	Moderate	Fair
5	Slow	Good
6	Slower	Good
7	Very slow	Very good
8	Extremely slow	Excellent

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MERITS AND DEMERITS OF BASIC, ACID, AND DIRECT DYES

 MERITS AND DEMERITS OF BASIC, ACID, AND DIRECT DYES

BASIC DYES

Merits

High tentorial value or color value.

➤ Bright shades.

➤ Less processing time.

➤ Low cost.

With prior bleaching, light shades can be produced.

➤ Basic colors dye coir at low temperatures but leveling and penetration can be improved by increasing the temperature.

➤ Basic dyes are having good exhaustion and a standing bath is not necessary.

Demerits

➤ No light fastness

➤ No washing fastness

➤ No rubbing fastness

➤ Acetic acid is required for better dissolution of the dyestuff.

➤ Poor penetration.

ACID DYES

Merits

➤ Good penetration.

➤ Good brightness.

➤Good light fastness.

➤ Good washing fastness.

➤ Less processing time.

➤ Good leveling properties.

➤ A standing bath is necessary to reduce the cost of dying.

Demerits

➤ No tinctorial value.

➤ Light shades are available.

➤ Medium rubbing fastness.

➤ During the dyeing process, 2% sulphuric acid on the weight of the material is used as DBA.

➤ Due to the use of sulphuric acid, the durability of the product is reduced.

➤ Proper washing is necessary for the complete removal of sulphuric acid.

➤ Exhaustion of acid dyes is lower than basic dyes.

DIRECT DYES

Merits

Producing medium brightness.

Good light fastness.

Good washing fastness.

Good rubbing fastness.

Good penetration.

Easily available.

Easily dissolves in water.

During the dyeing process there is no need for acid as in the case of acid and basic dyes.

Demerits

Poor tinctorial power.

Produce dull shades.

Limited shades are available.

Medium cost.

Processing time is longer compared to acid and basic dyes

The exhaustion of direct dyes is much less and hence standing bath is necessary to reduce the cost of dyes.

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Basic, acid, and direct dyes each have unique merits and demerits regarding their use in dyeing textiles and other materials. Basic dyes offer bright shades and high tinctorial value but lack fastness to light, washing, and rubbing. Acid dyes are known for their versatility and ability to dye protein fibers like wool and silk, but may not be as colorfast as reactive dyes. Direct dyes are easy to use and cost-effective but struggle with poor wash and light fastness. 

Basic Dyes:

Merits:

• High tinctorial value: Basic dyes are known for their brilliant and intense colors. 
• Bright shades: They produce vibrant and eye-catching colors. 
• Low cost: They are relatively inexpensive to produce. 
• Good exhaustion: They readily attach to the fiber, reducing the need for a standing bath. 
• Dyeing at low temperatures: They can dye coir at lower temperatures, simplifying the process. 

Demerits: 

• Poor fastness to light: They fade easily in sunlight.
• Poor wash and rubbing fastness: Colors may bleed or rub off during washing.
• Need for acetic acid: Acetic acid is often required for better dye dissolution.
• Poor penetration: They may not penetrate deeply into the fiber. 

Acid Dyes:

Merits:

• Versatility: They can be used on a wide range of fibers, including wool, silk, and nylon. 
• Good dye fastness: They generally exhibit good fastness properties, meaning they resist fading and bleeding. 
• Wide shade range: They can create a variety of colors, from bright to subtle. 

Demerits:

• Not as colorfast as reactive dyes: They may not be as resistant to color loss as reactive dyes. 
• Environmental concerns: Some acid dyes can be difficult to decolorize and may be toxic to aquatic life, posing environmental challenges. 

Direct Dyes:

Merits:

• Simple dyeing process: They are easy to apply and use.
• Low cost: They are relatively inexpensive to produce.
• Wide shade range: They can create a variety of colors.
• Solubility: They are highly soluble in water, simplifying preparation. 

Demerits:

• Poor wash and light fastness: Colors may bleed or fade easily. 
• Duller shades: Colors tend to be less vibrant than those produced by other dye classes. 
• Potential for fading: They may not be as resistant to fading as some other dyes. 

 Biological Retting process

In this method, the retting process is carried out making use of enzymes and bacteria.

MECHANICAL EXTRACTION OF COIR FIBRE

The separation of coir fibre from coconut husk using machinery is brought about by either thrashing out the husks with a beater rotating at high speed in specially constructed beating chambers/drums or by subjecting the husks to a combing action by upright spikes(made up of high carbon steel) fitted to the periphery of drums revolving at high speed In the first case, the fine, coarse and stiff fibres are obtained in a mixed condition, whereas in the latter case, the long stiff fibre(bristle fibre) are separated from the shorter thinner fibre(mattress fibre) in the course of the combing action.

Ceylon Type combing drum:-

Like India Sri Lanka is also a coconut-producing country. Husks are available in plenty of there also. They have used this husk for producing bristle fibre for catering for their brush manufacturing units. They invented a machinery for extracting the bristle fibre from the dry husk. In this machine, the husk is subjected to a combing action against upright iron nails made up of high carbon steel fitted on the periphery of the drum revolving at a high speed by hand.

Chemical Method of Retting

In all chemical methods of retting, the husks are at first split or crushed as much as possible(partially crushed). Suitable machines or rollers do this. The crushed husks are then treated in the following ways.

Nanji Process

In this process, the partially crushed green or dry husks are treated under pressure with sodium sulphate or sodium carbonate containing a trace of aluminium sulphate for a period of 1 or 2 hours whereby the fibre is loosened from the pith and separated by washing.

Elod and Thomas Process

The fibre is separated by mechanical means after the crushed husks have been twice immersed in hot water, slaked lime or similar substances being added during the second immersion to avoid discolouration.

Rowell Process

The crushed husks are subjected to high-pressure steam in a specially constructed steam chamber whereby the fibre gets loose and separated.

Van der Jagt's process

The mechanically opened husks are boiled with a weak solution of (5%) caustic soda and squeezed. The compressed fibres are then reopened, softened and cleaned.

Hayers-Gratze Process

The split husk sections are immersed in water, pressed or rolled and then boiled in a solution of water H.G ionized oil(Hayers-Gratze) for 1-4 hours depending on the freshness of the husk.

The main advantages of chemical methods of fibre separation

Disadvantage

However, the higher cost involved is a major disadvantage

Advantage

Saving in time

Higher yield

Greater uniformity in the quality of the product

The process can be used in areas where retting in backwaters is not possible

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Mechanical Extraction of Coir Fibre

Coir fibre is mechanically separated from coconut husks using machines that employ one of two main methods:

1. Beating Method: The husks are thrashed inside high-speed rotating drums or chambers using beaters. This process yields a mixture of fine, coarse, and stiff fibres.

2. Combing Method: The husks are subjected to a combing action using upright spikes made of high-carbon steel, fixed around the edge of high-speed rotating drums. This method separates long, stiff bristle fibres from shorter, thinner mattress fibres during the combing process.

Ceylon-Type Combing Drum

Like India, Sri Lanka is a major coconut-producing country with an abundant supply of husks. These husks are primarily used to produce bristle fibre for brush manufacturing. A specialized hand-operated machine was developed in Sri Lanka to extract bristle fibre from dry husks. The machine works by combing the husks against high-carbon steel nails fixed around the drum’s edge, which rotates at high speed.

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Chemical Methods of Retting

In chemical retting, husks are first partially crushed using machines or rollers. They are then processed using different chemical treatments to separate the fibres:

1. Nanji Process: Crushed green or dry husks are treated under pressure with a solution of sodium sulphate or sodium carbonate, containing a small amount of aluminium sulphate, for 1–2 hours. This loosens the fibres, which are then separated by washing.

2. Elod and Thomas Process: Crushed husks are immersed twice in hot water. During the second immersion, slaked lime or similar agents are added to prevent fibre discolouration. The fibres are then separated mechanically.

3. Rowell Process: Crushed husks are exposed to high-pressure steam in a specially designed chamber. The steam loosens the fibres for easy separation.

4. Van der Jagt's Process: Mechanically opened husks are boiled in a 5% caustic soda solution and then squeezed. The resulting compressed fibres are softened, cleaned, and separated.

5. Hayers-Gratze Process: Split husk sections are soaked in water, pressed or rolled, and then boiled for 1–4 hours (depending on husk freshness) in a water solution containing H.G. ionized oil.

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Advantages of Chemical Methods

• Saves time compared to traditional retting

• Higher fibre yield

• More uniform fibre quality

• Suitable for areas lacking access to backwater retting

Disadvantage

• Higher operational cost compared to natural retting methods

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Banister Brush

 Banister Brush:

This is a brush mostly used in Railways and Automobile Industries. This is also used in cotton spinning mills for cleaning machinery. Wood material for this brush is first prepared in cylindrical form having a diameter of 5cm to a length of 23cm. And there reduced the circumference to a length of 12cm. After turning the portion having a length of 23cm is cut to get a plain surface for drilled holes to fill the fibre. The fibre tufts are fixed in 4 rows and they will have a length of about 7cm. The fibre used for this type of brush will be of second-quality bristle.

Banister Brush 

1. This brush is mainly used in railways, automobile industries, and cotton spinning mills for cleaning machines.

2. The handle is made from wood, shaped into a cylinder 5 cm in diameter and 23 cm long.

3. Then, the middle part of the cylinder (12 cm long) is slightly reduced in size.

4. After shaping, the 23 cm piece is cut to create a flat surface for drilling holes.

5. Holes are drilled on the flat surface to fix the fibre tufts.

6. The brush has 4 rows of fibre tufts.

7. Each fibre tuft is about 7 cm long.

8. The fibres used are second-quality bristles.

Banister Brush :

1. Use:

   • Commonly used in Railways, Automobile industries, and Cotton Spinning Mills.

   • Mainly used for cleaning machinery.

2. Material & Size:

   • Made from wood.

   • The wood is shaped into a cylinder: 5 cm in diameter and 23 cm long.

   • The middle part is narrowed down to 12 cm in length.

3. Making Process:

   • After shaping, one side is flattened to make holes.

   • Holes are drilled to insert the cleaning fibres.

4. Fibre Details:

   • 4 rows of fibre tufts are fixed into the holes.

   • Each tuft is about 7 cm long.

   • The fibre used is second-quality bristle.

heddle frames ||pulley|| Slay

 heddle frames.

This is a wooden rectangular frame in which the heddle is arranged by suitable introduction of two iron rods at top and bottom which are called heddle staves. The number of heddle frames for a loom depends upon the design and the type of fabric to be woven. The heddles are usually made of iron wire twisted to form a heddle eye at the center and two holes at the top and bottom to insert the heddles through the heddle staves. A handloom in the coir industry is provided with a maximum of 4 heddle frames.

pulley

They are meant for up and down movement of the heddle frames. With the help of a single and double pulley arranged suitably in the loom, the heddle frames get a compound movement when a treadle is depressed. ie., when a treadle is depressed the corresponding heddle frame will be brought down, and at the same time, it causes the other heddle frames in the loom to move up simultaneously. The pulleys are fixed on pulley beams placed on the pulley stand which are fixed on the top framework of the loom. The diagram showing the tie-up of heddle frames with single and double pulleys is given below.

Slay:-

Slay is used to bring the weft to the fell of the cloth, the process of bringing the weft to the fell of the cloth is called beating. The is an assembly of a slay cap, slay sword, slay race, rocking shaft, and reed. The upper part of the slay rests over the framework of the loom. The slay is made to oscillate by introducing a knife edge at the place where the upper part of the slay and loom framework touch each other at the top. In place of a knife edge sometimes a rod and bush are also used.

ESSENTIAL PROPERTIES

 ESSENTIAL PROPERTIES

1. Staple length

Staple length is the most important property necessary to convert the Fibre into continuous length and it determines the usefulness. It is important to note that the strength of the thread is directly proportional to the length of individual Fibre used in the manufacture of that thread. The staple length of natural Fibre varies in length. Hence proper selection and grading of fibre is necessary to produce a particular type of yarn.

2. Tensile strength

Tensile strength is the most important property required for a textile Fibre. If the individual Fibre does not have strength, it is not possible to make a yarn from it. Although dependent on other qualities, the primary property essential is the tensile strength of Fibre to resist wear and tear while in use.

3. Spinnability (Cohesiveness)

The third essential quality required for a textile Fibre is the spinning power. It is the property of the individual Fibres holding one another when spun into yarn. Cohesiveness is the frictional resistance caused by the irregular surface of the Fibres. Cotton, coir, and wool possess an irregular surface that gives a high degree of friction and this is greatly increased by giving a twist in Fibre which interlocks several Fibres spun together and thus prevents the Fibres from slipping when subjected to strain.

4. Fineness

Fineness is the thickness of a Fibre and is expressed by its diameter in microns. It will decide the quality of the yarn or product. The finer the staple of the Fibre, the finer will be the yarn produced from it.

5. Elasticity

It is one of the most important properties of textile Fibre. It decides the breaking strength of the Fibre or yarn. The durability of a Fibre also determines in great measure its elasticity.

6. Pliability

Pliability is the property, that enables one Fibre to be easily wrapped around another in the spinning operation. The lack of this property will make the Fibre brittle.

7. Durability.

Durability means that the textile Fibres must be capable of withstanding ordinary kinds of wear to which it is reasonably subjected. It will decide the usage time of the product.

8. Luster

Another quality, that enhances the value of textile Fibre, is luster. Fibre possesses this quality such as silk, mercerized artificial silk, etc., and is capable of producing beautiful effects. The luster however is not an essential property but is an ornamental property.

9. Porosity

Porosity meant that the Fibre should be capable of easily absorbing liquids and solutions. This is essential for dyeing, bleaching, and other finishing processes. Fibres that cannot be dyed or bleached would have a limited application in the manufacture of textiles.

10. Uniformity

It means the evenness in length and diameter of the Fibre enhances the spinning quality very much and produces an even thread.

11. Moisture Relations

The moisture relation will affect the following

Comfort wearing

Percentage of shrinkage

Drying and wetting percentage

Development of elasticity

12. Density

The density of the Fibre depends upon the weight of the molecule of which it is made and how closely they are packed together. It is necessary in the development of cloth construction.

13. Availability

To possess commercial value Fibre must be available in large quantities and its supply more or less constant and cheap. The minimum availability will affect the production

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